「刀是料理人的生命!」日本遠從戰國時期就出了許多煉刀師…而在京都的錦小路通中,有一間歷經十八代傳承的百年料理刀具店-「有次」。有次的所在地錦市場、當地人稱為「錦」,一個狹隘的街道、卻是京都料理的天堂,這裡蘊藏了京都最好的食物、魚販和廚師,當然也包括了刀具!(內含HD影音)
成立於1560年(永祿3年)的刀具店「有次」,是由刀具製作人藤原有次所創立的。在江戶時期,有次專門製作關西地區大小佛寺刻雕像的雕刻刀,因為手工細致、刀鋒銳利,所以深受雕刻師所喜愛,直到了明治時期,有次才開始專注於當時料理刀具新興產業,發展為製作居家與料理人專用的刀具。
京都的有次,創始店位於大阪傳統職人、也是名刀製作地「堺」市,西元1981才把店搬遷至京都錦市場,雖說有次並非是京都所出身的刀具店(「菊一文字」才是京都出身老鋪),但在日本、也包括海外料理職人,都熱愛使用「有次」的刀具。
有次刀,因著不同功用料理的方式,而有不同選擇的刀具,但全部都是手工鋼版製作!一個專業廚房會從刀的型狀、刀峰和刀的銳利度,就觀察出刀的好壞。由於買刀時不能試切,所以之前有一位日本米其林三星的主廚表示,「選用刀,我會帶幾根頭髮來測試銳利度,顯然「有次」的刀、是經得起市場考驗的。」
有次第十八代的老闆寺久保真一郎、17歲就入行製作刀具,他說一把好的刀、製作過程需要燒碳鋼,加熱變硬時,要迅速冷卻,並要鋼一層一層壓製。而有次刀所使用三種不同等級的碳鋼,都是由最好碳所煉製,再加上一些額外的化學元素,以保持刀片邊緣的鋒利。
「雖然我的祖先有製作過皇室內務府戰刀、武士刀,但料理用的刀有明顯不同,一個是用於殺敵、一個是用於撫慰世人的胃,所以我祖先後來才發展從武士刀到雕塑佛像刀具,最後轉成料理刀。」寺久保表示,刀的大小及品質會影響價格,近年來日本的景氣不好,很多人喜歡使用便宜又方便的陶瓷刀、放棄傳統刀,他不以為然,認為維持刀具的品質是一項使命,就算賠錢也要把刀做到最好。
日本的菜刀稱為「庖丁」,通常有次專業烹飪刀分為基本類型出刃包丁,主要用在魚的料理上;薄刃包丁(菜刀),主要用在蔬菜的處理上;刺身包丁,專門用於處理生魚片,是日式菜刀中最細的刀子。
一般家庭用則使用三德刀,是一種綜合用途的菜刀,刀刃的部份為弧形,搭配砧板使用可做出更精確的切割;主廚刀長度約為15~30公分,「有次」還製作為蘿蔔刨和芥末刨,有次的非刀具料理產品種類繁多。
當然「有次」也有專屬訂製刀服務
Aritsugu is a Japanese knife and cooking utensil producer and store, founded by Fujiwara Aritsugu in 1560, making it one of the oldest still existing knifemakers in Japan.
Aritsugu was originally involved in the production of swords and was appointed a supplier for the Imperial House of Japan, before the requirement for new blades diminished due to a more peaceful era emerging through the influence of the Tokugawa shogunate during the Edo period in the 17th and 18th centuries.It was during this period that Aritsugu switched its primary production from swords to the pointed knives that were used to carve statues of Buddha.The late 19th century Meiji period saw a strong growth in demand for kitchen knives and cooking utensils developing in Japan thanks to a stable government and improved living conditions. Aritsugu used its experience in blade production to focus on this emerging market.
The current proprietor of Aritsugu is Shinichiro Terakubo, having taken over from his father in 1956 when Shinichiro was 17 years of age.He is the 18th generation to be involved in the running of the store since its inception. Shinichiro also teaches cooking, as well as knife sharpening and use classes through the store.
The main store is presently at the Nishiki Market in Kyoto having moved there in 1981 from Sakaimachi Street, where the shop was located for almost 400 years and the company's offices are still based.A selection of the company's products are also available from the Takashimaya department store in Nihonbashi, Tokyo.
有次(ありつぐ)Aritsugu
地址:京都府京都市中京区錦小路御幸町西入鍛冶屋219
電話:075-221-1091
營業時間:9:00 – 17:30, no holidays
責任編輯:我愛龍馬
文章:由希美
攝影:JACKY(京都)
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文章採訪:2013 KYOTO京都
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