藏不住的料理匠藝－新加坡 JAAN Restaurant Chef Julien Royer @ 良好印象傳媒 Favorable Impression Media @FIMMEDIA

新加坡的JAAN法式餐廳在今年的亞洲五十最佳餐廳大放異彩，從原本的17名躍升6名到No.11，對於這個結果我們一點都不意外！在頒獎典禮揭曉前，良好印象專訪了由Chef Julien Royer所主導的這間餐廳，我們發現，他原本就令人驚豔的現代新派法式料理，現在又更成熟調和，Chef Julien展現出來的自信與對烹飪的游刃有餘，才34歲的他，已現大將之風。(內含HD現場影音)

「Julien Royer的料理尊崇最好的時令食材，同時重視於醬料的搭配，在菜式的呈現上不但富於技巧、同時充滿了想像力…。」這是亞洲五十間餐廳給予他的評語。對於Julien創造出55度的有機煙燻蛋、混合了甜菜根的不同菜式以及蘑菇茶湯…等都備受評審們讚譽。

像JAAN的野菜花園(JAAN’S GARDEN)這道沙拉，因為主廚Julien Royer從小身長在農村家庭，所以對於蔬菜的品質要求很高，他嚴選用來自世界各國、當季二十多種有機認證的蔬菜。利用低溫48小時內空運蔬果到新加坡、再搭配Julien的手藝，烹調出美味又養生的蔬菜拼盤，很多人享用過後才發現：原來蔬菜的原味是如此天然新鮮的味道！

又如Julien另一招牌菜式，”有機溫泉蛋 55”， 55的意味是Chef用低溫水煮55分鐘、64度C烹飪出有機溫泉蛋，搭配蕎麥泥和臘香腸，最後再使用迷迭香來煙燻，讓溫泉蛋與蕎麥泥更加入味，是充分展現Julien廚藝功力的一道料理。

Julien Royer來自法國中部 Auvergne省，出生於四代都務農的家族，造就出Julien從小對純淨及有機食材的尊重。由於成長於農村家庭，小時候的Julien就學會如何人性化地照顧蔬菜與動物，他也懂得珍惜當令的食材，明瞭一年中、那些動植物與水果，是最適合與最安全食用的時節。

從Julien開始踏入廚房工作開始，他更時刻把”不令不食”的信仰帶進他的工作裡。他第一次進入米其林餐廳工作、是在法國laguiole省Michel Bra的傳奇餐廳工作。Michel Bras的廚房以清淡的食材及美麗的擺盤聞名，在這裡Julien學習到食物匠藝的重要。

隨後Julien開始跟隨Chef Bernard Andrieux在他的米其林餐廳工作。在這段期間，Chef Julien發現他需要更多的經驗去豐富他的料理，所以他後來也接受了法國Carl Gustaf Hotel、倫敦Jean Georges Vongerichten’s restaurants及 Greenhouse Restaurant的工作。

之後Julien決定前進亞洲，到新加坡瑞士史丹佛酒店餐廳JAAN工作前、也曾在The St.Regis的法國餐廳Brasserie Les Saveurs 擔任主廚。「我跟我的team(團隊)一起合作3年了，我相信我們已經培養出絕佳的默契。」Julien表示，這段期間，他經常到亞洲各國旅行或客座，每一次的經驗，都會融入在其菜式中，幻化為屬於Julien個人詮釋出來的味道。

事實上，一個名廚的成功，除了本身的技藝外，團隊合作的默契、以及餐廳的充分授權，都是至關緊要的因素。在JAAN，Chef Julien可以提供對瓷器的想法、再由餐廳團隊來共同完成。

「如果米其林評鑑來，我當然張開雙臂接受他們。」相較於很多亞洲五十間餐廳主廚對此議題的閃躲，Julien顯然自然許多，不單單因為他有法國血統，相信他也已經「準備好了」，一個在亞洲被看見、未來更不可限量的廚師-Julien Royer。

以下是Chef Julien推薦的JAAN菜式:

Lentil Hummus,cereals tuliles扁豆泥加上穀類脆片

是Chef Julien自己製作的佐醬

小點

Black sesame sponge,smoked eel黑芝麻棉狀體加上煙燻魚

Pork trotter samosa,grain mustard豬腳咖哩角配上芥末粒

Cantal and walnut crackers 胡桃餅乾

Mushroom tea,cep sabayon 蘑菇濃湯,加上牛肝菌

sabayon(用蛋黃, 糖和甜酒做成的點心)

HOKKAIDO SEA-URCHIN 北海道海膽

Obsiblue prawn, cauliflower, ‘Oscietra’ caviar

藍蝦,花椰菜,俄羅斯魚子醬

麵包是義大利料理很常見的做法，像吃炸起司條一樣,溫溫熱熱的

ORGANIC EGG’EN HABIT NOIR’

Saint-Gery ham, Black truffle

Chef Julien招牌的低溫有機蛋，加上Perigord黑松露、以及法國Saint-Gery區產的火腿

CRISPY SKIN AMADAI 酥炸馬頭魚

Kabocha,coquillages,Thai veloute

炸酥的魚鱗片、南瓜,加上泰國高湯醬汁

HAY ROASTED PIGEON乾草烤乳鴿

Black sesame, HOKKAIDO corn

切好乳鴿，用醃料醃24小時。醃好後抹走醃料，每隻獨立放入真空袋，用攝氏64度水溫煮29分鐘。

另用鑊煮牛油，並加入醃乳鴿剩下的醬汁，保留成乳鴿汁。

加入北海道玉米及黑芝麻醬來調味；另有內臟串燒。

BEETROOT COLLECTION甜菜根組合的甜點

‘Burrata artigiana’, honeycomb, horseradish

佐蜂巢及山葵

CHOCONUTS ‘GRAND CRU’ Tastes & textures

來自秘魯的巧克力甜點擺盤

用液態氮呈現煙霧繚繞的迷迭香巧克力棒棒糖，以迷迭香冰沙為中心，外層以巧克力包裹著。

蕈菇做成的馬卡龍

Jaan is located on the 70th floor of Singapore’s Swissôtel The Stamford, with an accompanying vista out over the bay that lives long in the memory. The fact that diners are likely to descend from the skyscraper marvelling at the various dishes’ exquisite flavours instead is, therefore, quite an achievement.

Julien Royer’s cuisine pays homage to the finest seasonal produce, which is carefully sourced, skilfully prepared and imaginatively presented. The chef’s French roots are much in evidence – early pupillages were under Michel Bras and Bernard Andrieux – but Royer’s tasting menu displays plenty of originality of its own. The 55° smoked egg is already famous, but less flashy dishes such as a medley of beetroot showcasing varieties and techniques or the ceps sabayon mushroom tea are equally impactful.

The 40-cover dining room is relatively unadorned aside from a twisted Murano glass ceiling sculpture. The excellent wine list, polished service and dramatic location play their part, but the food is the star of this particular show.

JAAN was one of 8 restaurants in Singapore to be recognised on this Asia’s 50 best restaurants list. Up 5 spots this year, the new ranking is an outstanding achievement for JAAN and recognises the remarkable growth of the restaurant in Asia as Julien Royer, Chef de Cuisine of JAAN, continues leading the culinary team in a pursuit of culinary excellence.

‘It is a great honour for JAAN to have been recognised by a well-respected panel of leaders in the industry and to be ranked amongst some of the best restaurants in Asia. This is a real privilege for my team and I at JAAN and we certainly look forward to continue bringing our guests a most memorable dining experience by pushing boundaries with even more inspiring creations,’ says JAAN’s Chef de Cuisine Julien Royer.

Born to a family of farmers from four generations back, Chef Julien trained under culinary luminaries such as Michel Bras at Laguiole and Bernard Andrieux who reinforced his beliefs in showcasing the purity of ingredients in every creation. At JAAN, Chef Julien continues to enthrall his guests with his Artisanal Cuisine that celebrates seasonality and reflects the honesty and rustic charm of his upbringing. His elegant and refined creations highlight the finest produce from the world’s best producers.

In 2013, JAAN also received the coveted ‘The One to Watch’ award sponsored by LesConcierges. This was conferred in recognition of JAAN’s significant impact on Asia’s dining scene within a relatively short period of time and its potential to rise up the rankings in future years.

Most recently, JAAN was also appointed as Krug’s first restaurant to be a Krug Ambassade in Singapore. Handpicked by Maggie Henriquez, President and CEO of Krug, JAAN was selected for its commitment to unparalleled quality, a similar philosophy that Krug shares, and is the first restaurant in Singapore to join the ranks with other renowned restaurants such as l'Assiette Champenoise in Champagne, Flocon de Sel in Mégève, l’Hôtel Georges V in Paris, Le Burgundy, Fat Duck and Murano in London, Dinner at the Mandarin Oriental London, Palazzina Grassi in Venice, Fingers in Milan, Kinoshita in Sao Paolo, 8 1/2 Otto & Mezzo Bombana in Hong Kong and Tim Raue restaurant in Berlin.

JAAN Restaurants

地址：新加坡史丹福瑞士酒店Swissôtel The Stamford, Singapore 70F

2 Stamford Road ▪ Singapore

電話：+65 9199 9008

http://www.jaan.com.sg/

價格：

Lunch

3道菜每位定價$68

5道菜每位定價$118

7道菜每位定價$158

Dinner

5道菜每位定價$198